Chapter 6: Casting Out Fear

Royal Light Metaphysical Fiction by Dennis Bruce Shipman (1079 words)
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My near-death wipeout shook me to the core. I had to confront my fear and regain my confidence again by surfing the Pipe.

I had wiped out at the Pipe before, but never made contact with the reef. And never had I come so close to drowning. I hold a deep reverence for the ocean and its waves, yet I recalled Mark Twain's words, "Do what you fear most and the death of fear is certain." Today, I knew I had to make friends with fear once again.

Deep down, I sensed that something within me had changed, as well. I was no longer as afraid of death as I used to be. I felt a greater connection with the ocean and its waves, perhaps a result of my NDE. Nevertheless, I had no desire for a repeat performance in the near or distant future.

The Banzai Pipeline, also known simply as "Pipeline" or the “Pipe,” is one of the most famous and dangerous big wave surf breaks in the world. Able to accommodate waves up to 20 feet high, this legendary wave draws surfers from all corners of the globe, eager to test their skills and ride its powerful and challenging barrels.

What makes the waves at Pipe so powerful, and hollow is the topography of the ocean floor. The razor-sharp shallow cavernous coral reef, that lies between six to ten feet beneath the surface, creates a unique shape that allows the waves to break in a way that produces massive, hollow barrels. These hollow barrels oftentimes engulfs a surfer’s entire torso, truly cementing the slogan of “riding the tube.” Surfboards broken in half sometimes occur by the power of these waves and even some surfers have lost their lives here.

Aspiring to become a professional championship surfer, I had the opportunity to ride the magnificent waves of the North Shore. Pipeline, Sunset Beach, and Waimea Bay were my go-to spots. I knew it was crucial to conquer the challenging conditions at these renowned locations. I firmly believed that by accomplishing this feat, I would be prepared to tackle other colossal waves around the globe.

A thrilling series of ten-foot waves emerged at Pipe, and I found myself in a highly advantageous position. With just a few swift strokes I caught the wave. It lifted my surfboard up, and I descended down the face of the wave. Skillfully navigating the curl at the base, into a trim position, I suddenly heard a celestial melody resonating from an unidentified source. The sheer beauty of this sound surpassed even the compositions of renowned musical geniuses like Bach, Mozart, or Beethoven. It was an enchanting melody unlike anything I had ever encountered before.

As I accelerated towards the mouth of the luminous tunnel, I firmly grasped the rail of my surfboard to steady myself for the powerful aqueous energy vortex that had previously knocked me off my board. Misty spray filled the air, creating a surreal scene where time seemed to slow down. I found myself surrounded by a radiant, iridescent, shimmering whirlpool of light that expanded until it completely enveloped me. In that moment, I couldn't help but hope that this wasn't another near-death experience, but rather a truly extraordinary phenomenon.

Later, my girlfriend Sweeney picked me up for lunch in her stunning 1967 Corvette Coupe, which had undergone a complete restoration and flaunted a striking candy apple red exterior. Sweeney had no culinary skills, but she had a great appreciation for upscale dining establishments. We crossed paths four years ago when I was 19. She was a couple years older than me, seemed to be in her early twenties at that time and not married.

She had a fair complexion and a fit, slender body with blue eyes, a slim nose, and long, flowing curls of blonde hair that fell halfway down her back. Standing at approximately 5 feet 8 inches in height, she had an attractive figure with a 36-inch bust, a 24-inch waist, and 36-inch hips. She was every photographer's dream and had been working as a model for several years with a dream to be discovered as an actress for the motion picture industry.

Right from the start, she made it evident that she had a strong passion for fast cars, easy money, acquiring all the toys she desired, and most importantly, she desired me. We ordered a sumptuous meal, then I poured the champagne.

"Can you trust me when I tell you that I had a close brush with death?" I inquired of Sweeney.

She squirmed in her seat, avoiding eye contact and responded with a smile that conveyed her reluctance to discuss the matter. Taking her reaction into consideration, I chose not to delve further into the question.

I lifted my glass of champagne saying, “Here’s to us, and to my recovery.” Our glasses clinked as we took a sip of the effervescent white wine.

"I want to show you my dream car," she stated, retrieving a pamphlet from her handbag and passing it over to me. "I am absolutely infatuated with this exotic supercar. It exudes a remarkable sense of sophistication and grace. The sleek, aerodynamic contours of this vehicle are truly captivating. What's more, it is completely street legal and can reach speeds in excess of 200 miles per hour. And it’s only $2.3 million. Will you buy it for me, honey?”

"Are there surf racks on the roof for my surfboards?" We shared a laugh, fully aware that it was meant as a joke. As a professional surfer, my income was above average, but it fell short of being able to afford an extravagant luxury vehicle like that. However, I couldn't help but sense a deeper message behind her words.

Something extraordinary occurred in that moment.

As we continued to find amusement in our laughter and lighthearted banter, a mesmerizing display of iridescent hues slowly began to materialize around Sweeney's figure. Shades of red, orange, lemon yellow, brown, gray, and black illuminated the space around her. I was unsure how to interpret this surreal phenomenon; it was a captivating sight, yet it also evoked a sense of unease.

The colors bore a striking resemblance to the ethereal glow I had witnessed earlier in the day while riding the waves at the Pipe, as well as during my near-death experience. Though I chose not to mention it to Sweeney, the memory of those vibrant hues lingered within me, leaving an indelible mark.

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